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Kyoto is a city where the past and present harmoniously coexist. Offering a profound and immersive experience of Japan’s traditional culture, history, and natural beauty. This is the one area of Japan that I was the most eager to experience, and I absolutely left a piece of my heart there.
Stepping into the vibrant city of Kyoto for our first full day of exploration, we were filled with a sense of anticipation and excitement. After a couple days of leisurely pace, we knew today would be a thrilling adventure.
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So much to do, so little time
As mentioned in previous posts, Mark and I spent significant time researching Japan before traveling there. We had been watching videos, reading blogs, learning the language, etc., and making Google Maps lists of things we were interested in. Eventually, we combined our separate lists to see what matched up. Then we made a collective list to see what we had in common. Next, we started mapping those things out to see what could potentially be done in one day. Turns out, you can squeeze a lot into one day thanks to the transportation system being so advance!
Kyoto is home to over 1,600 Buddhist temples and 400 Shinto shrines, many of which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. It’s hard to choose what to do, knowing you could never see everything in one visit. One of the top destinations on both of our lists was Fushimi Inari Shrine.
Fushimi Inari Shrine
Fushimi Inari Taisha is one of Japan’s most iconic and significant Shinto shrines in the southern part of Kyoto. Famous for its thousands of vibrant torii gates, it attracts millions of visitors yearly.
Historical Background
Fushimi Inari Shrine dates back to 711 AD, making it one of the oldest Shinto shrines in Japan. It was initially located on Inariyama Hill in southwestern Kyoto but was relocated to its present location in 816 AD by the monk Kūkai. The shrine is dedicated to Inari, the Shinto god of rice, fertility, and prosperity. Throughout history, Inari has also become the patron deity of business, making the shrine popular among merchants and entrepreneurs.
The most striking feature of Fushimi Inari is its thousands of torii gates, known as Senbon Torii, which line the paths up the sacred Mount Inari. Each torii gate is donated by individuals or companies, with their names inscribed on the back as a token of gratitude. It’s truly an unbelievable sight to see.
Key Features
Senbon Torii (Thousands of Torii Gates)
The torii gates create a stunning tunnel effect as they wind up the mountain. The gates vary in size and age, with the oldest dating back to the 8th century. The hike through these gates to the summit of Mount Inari takes about 2-3 hours round trip and offers spectacular views of Kyoto.
Main Shrine (Honden)
Located at the base of Mount Inari, the main shrine is where visitors can offer prayers and purchase omamori (protective charms). The architecture blends traditional Shinto styles with vibrant colors and intricate designs.
Sub-Shrines
Along the hiking trail are numerous smaller shrines and altars dedicated to various aspects of Inari worship. These include the Omokaru Stones, which are said to help determine the weight of one’s wishes, and the Kumatakasha Shrine, known for its connection to love and relationships.
Fox Statues
Inari is often depicted as a fox, believed to be the deity’s messenger. Throughout the shrine, you’ll find numerous fox statues, each holding a symbolic item in its mouth, such as a key or a scroll.
Tips for Visiting
Fushimi Inari Shrine is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week, making it an excellent spot for an early morning or evening visit to avoid crowds. Early morning visits allow you to experience the tranquility of the shrine, while evening visits offer a unique, mystical atmosphere as the lanterns light up the paths.
The shrine is easily accessible from Kyoto Station. Take the JR Nara Line to Inari Station, which is a short 5-minute ride. The shrine entrance is just a few steps from the station.
Bring Water and Snacks: While there are a few small shops along the trail, bringing your own water and snacks is advisable, especially on hot days.
Avoid Peak Times: Early morning or late afternoon visits can help you avoid the heaviest crowds and experience a more tranquil atmosphere.
What to Wear
Comfortable walking shoes are essential, especially if you plan to hike to the summit of Mount Inari. The paths can be steep and uneven, so it’s best to be prepared. Also, dress in layers, as the weather can change quickly, especially in the mountains. We wore really good cross training tennis shoes and our toes and legs were still killing us on the way down the mountain. Pace yourself!
Etiquette
As with all religious sites in Japan, respect’s essential. This includes bowing before entering the main shrine, washing your hands at the purification fountain, and avoiding loud conversations. Photography is allowed, but be mindful of the people around you, especially those there for worship.
Fushimi Inari Shrine is more than just a tourist destination; it’s a spiritual journey through history and nature. Like all iconic landmarks in Japan, it’s best to pack your patience. We arrived around 9 AM, and it was already quite busy.
I had read that if you wanted photos without hundreds of people, you should go as far up the mountain as possible, and the crowds would thin out, and we found this to be great advice. We managed to go all the way to the top, and there were many opportunities to take photos without hoards of people in them. Plus, you can say you climbed a mountain in Japan!
Bamboo Forest Pro Tip
Since the crowds were intense on the weekend, we adjusted our plans a bit after climbing Mount Inari. We grabbed some snacks and headed to the next place on our list to see one of Japan’s famous bamboo forests.
One of the most famous is Arashiyama Bamboo Grove in Kyoto, but we learned about a few lesser known ones. Still having a full day ahead, we tried to pace ourselves but climbed what felt like a second mountain to experience a much less crowded Bamboo Forest – Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple.
Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple
Adashino Nenbutsu-ji is a serene and historically significant temple in the Arashiyama district of Kyoto. Known for its hauntingly beautiful collection of stone statues, it offers a unique glimpse into Japan’s spiritual and cultural history.
Historical Background
Adashino Nenbutsu-ji traces its origins back to the Heian period (794-1185). It was founded by the revered monk Kūkai, also known as Kōbō Daishi, who played a pivotal role in the spread of Buddhism in Japan. The temple is built on a historically used site as a burial ground for those without family or means to provide for their afterlife care.
Over the centuries, thousands of stone statues, known as “rakan,” have been placed here to honor the souls of the deceased. These statues, each representing a Buddha or a disciple of Buddha, were collected and placed by local monks and the community to provide solace and remembrance for the departed.
The most striking feature of Adashino Nenbutsu-ji is its collection of approximately 8,000 stone statues. Each statue is unique, reflecting the individuality of the souls they commemorate.
Bamboo Grove
Adashino Nenbutsu-ji is located near the famous Arashiyama Bamboo Grove. A visit to the temple can be combined with a stroll through this enchanting bamboo forest, and the best part is that there were hardly any people! There is a small admission fee, which helps maintain and preserve the site, but it’s completely worth it to practically have the bamboo forest to ourselves.
Sunset in Kyoto
After a long day of walking, we returned to the hotel to clean up before dinner. One of the only dining reservations we made for the trip other than the Harry Potter Cafe was on that night in Kyoto, but we still had a couple of hours to fill, so we decided to explore the area around it. Luckily, there is plenty to see and do, including the Yasaka Shrine. We arrived just before sunset and watched a beautiful sunset on the front steps of the shrine.
Yasaka Shrine
Yasaka Shrine, known as Gion Shrine, is one of Kyoto’s most prominent and historic Shinto shrines. Located at the eastern end of Shijo Street in the Gion district, it is famous for its vibrant festivals and beautiful setting.
Historical Background
Yasaka Shrine dates back to 656 AD, making it one of the oldest shrines in Kyoto. It was originally called Gion-sha and has been an important center of Shinto worship for over a millennium. The shrine is dedicated to Susanoo-no-Mikoto, the Shinto god of sea and storms, his wife Kushinadahime-no-Mikoto, and their eight offspring deities.
The shrine was crucial in Kyoto’s religious and cultural life, especially during the Heian period (794-1185). Yasaka Shrine is particularly famous for its association with the Gion Matsuri, one of Japan’s most famous festivals. It originated in 869 AD as a purification ritual to appease the gods during an epidemic.
Key Features
Main Hall (Honden)
The main hall is a beautiful example of traditional Shinto architecture, with its bright vermilion color and intricate wooden carvings. Visitors can offer prayers and admire the structure’s elegance and historical significance.
Dance Stage (Budōden)
The dance stage, adorned with hundreds of lanterns, is one of the most iconic images of the Yasaka Shrine. These lanterns are lit in the evenings, creating a magical atmosphere. The stage is used for various traditional performances and ceremonies throughout the year.
Markets
Food stalls are very popular in Kyoto. Food vendors are lining both sides of the walkway as you walk in. As you pass the dance stage and main hall, you will see a large area filled with chabudai under the cherry blossom trees. A chabudai (卓袱台 or 茶袱台 or 茶部台) is a short-legged table used in traditional Japanese homes. It was a beautiful area to grab a drink and sit under the stars and lights.
Adjacent to Yasaka Shrine is Maruyama Park, a popular spot for spring cherry blossom viewing (hanami). The park provides a beautiful natural setting with ponds, walking paths, and seasonal flowers, making it a perfect complement to a visit to the shrine.
Yasaka Shrine is open 24 hours a day and does not charge an admission fee, making it accessible to visitors anytime. It felt really magical to walk through the shrine and park at night; they did an excellent job lighting up the trees. I can only imagine how incredible it would have been to see the Sakura in full bloom, but we were still so grateful to see them.
Teppan Tavern Tenamonya
Finally, it was time for dinner! For most of the trip, we tried to eat light and on the go to save money over the two weeks, but we had a couple of meals that felt more like a splurge. Wagyu beef was one of the famous food items on our list to try. I came across a wonderful YouTube Video in which I learned about an incredible place well-known for Wagyu Beef in Kyoto that is by reservation/invite only and extremely difficult to get into—Teppan Tavern Tenamonya.
Teppan Tavern Tenamonya is a family-run teppanyaki restaurant in Kyoto that serves affordable A5 wagyu beef and also has vegetarian/vegan options, which can be very difficult to find in Japan. I decided to set a calendar reminder for the first day the reservations would open up for our timeframe in Kyoto and give it a try. Two weeks before our trip, I secured an online reservation! Teppan Tavern is a tiny and cozy husband and wife-owned restaurant with 6-7 seats at the bar, one table for two people, and another for four people, and that’s it!
Reservations Needed
The restaurant can only accommodate a few reservations each day, and they keep the door locked until your exact reservation time to avoid being overrun with patrons. It can be a little tricky to find, but luckily, they have much signage on the outside of the building pointing you to the correct door, which is also usually hard to find in Japan. The address system was challenging to understand, so we always gave ourselves enough time to figure it out.
Our favorite meal of the trip
When it was time for our reservation, we knocked on the door and were greeted by the loveliest couple, owners Hideki and Naoko. They have been serving some of the best food in Kyoto since 1998, and they have really fine-tuned the experience to make it one of a kind and very special.
This wonderful husband and wife duo made this experience one of the best of the trip. Naoko walks you through the menu in English, takes your order, and serves your table while her husband cooks and takes care of the bar area.
They run this place like a well-oiled machine, and you can tell they are passionate and deeply love what they do. They even make their own homemade plum wine, which is one of my favorite drinks.
The Food is Top-Notch
We indulged in a decadent meal consisting of homemade gyoza, A5 Wagyu Beef, softshell crab, grilled shrimp, and okonomiyaki while being entertained with jokes, music, stories, and Japanese traditions. This was a perfect laid-back evening where we felt part of the family.
They do a wonderful presentation at the table to show patrons how to make wasabi and how to properly eat it. We loved the education part of this dining experience. It was so sweet to check my email the next day and find photos of us interacting with Chef Hideki. Naoko, who had taken photos and sent them to us as a thank-you for supporting their small restaurant, was the absolute sweetest.
We almost can’t convey what a great experience this was, and will look back at it fondly. We highly recommend Teppan Tavern Tenamonya. The food practically melted in your mouth, and the house-made Plum wine is the best I have ever had. This husband-and-wife duo is exactly the kind of Japanese hospitality and kindness we have always read about. 10/10!!
Next up is our second to last day in Kyoto, and then it’s on to Disneyland – stay tuned!
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It sounds like the Wagyu Beef lives up to the hype (and cost). I love the idea of the intimate setting with a husband & wife team making you feel like family.